Travel Guide

The Camino Primitivo – detailed information & strolling phases

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Camino Primitivo or the Authentic Method is part of the Northern Caminos community that features Camino Primitivo, Camino del Norte (Northern Method) and Camino Ingles (English Method). You are able to do the Camino Primitivo as a separate stroll or mix it with the French or Northern Method each have connection routes.

The whole distance of the Camino Primitivo 321km it may be accomplished in two weeks. The path begins on the cathedral of Oviedo and finishes on the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela. It’s thought-about to be the hardest out of all Camino de Santiago routes attributable to many steep up and down-hills. The route passes by two Spanish provinces – Asturias and Galicia and presents an ideal in-nature experience mixed with good infrastructure. In response to the statistics for 2017 solely 5% (about 12 000 folks a 12 months) of all of the pilgrims who stroll Camino de Santiago select the Primitive Method.

Obtain PDF file Camino Primitivo phases.

Camino Primitivo Route map
Camino Primitivo Route Map. + Camino Frances and Camino del Norte.

The title “primitivo” refers to its origin as the primary Camino Jacobeo (Camino de Santiago). Spanish king Alfonso II was the primary pilgrim to Santiago de Compostela, he walked the Camino within the IX century to commemorate the invention of the stays of apostle St. James in Compostela a few years earlier. At the moment many of the Spanish territory was below Moorish management, solely the Northern a part of Spain remained unbiased.

Our detailed video for planning the Camino de Santiago stroll

Finest season for strolling

Undoubtedly, summer time when it’s heat and fewer rainfalls although within the mountains the climate is unpredictable and adjustments shortly. July and August are the busiest months for this Camino with the finest climate situations. We walked it on the finish of Might starting of June and bought fairly a little bit of rain although all people informed us it wasn’t regular normally it’s heat and sunny this time of the 12 months. Shoulder season MightJune and September is usually a good time for strolling climate is good and not many individuals. We wouldn’t suggest strolling the Camino Primitivo low season from November to March as many albergues are closed for this era plus it’s chilly and wet.

Average monthly temperatures on the Camino Primitivo, Asturias
Common high and low temperatures all year long in Asturias, Spain
Average rainfalls on the Original Way, Spain
Common rainfalls all year long in Asturias, Spain

Sensible details about the Camino

There usually are not many information books for Camino Primitivo, the most effective one is The Northern Caminos information e book by Cicerone, paper, and Kindle model.

So as to get the Compostela on the finish of the Camino, it’s good to get two stamps per day for the final 100 km to Santiago de Compostela.

Roads can get fairly muddy on the Camino Primitivo, plus frequent rainfalls, convey waterproof footwear, jacket, rain poncho, backpack cowl.

Purchase native SIM card it’s very useful for locating locations and checking on distances. We purchased a Vodafone bundle 2Gb knowledge + 200min. native cellphone requires 15 Euro, legitimate for 30 days. It was greater than sufficient for 2 weeks of strolling, we uploaded movies and pictures on Instagram and Fb on daily basis.

The route is marked fairly effectively although in Asturian half indicators typically complicated.

Hostels for pilgrims on the Camino are known as “albergues“.

Each pilgrim should have a Credential – a certificates containing his/her title that will get stamped in each albergue a pilgrim stays in addition to in some eating places. Each albergue on the Camino asks to indicate a Credential to show an individual is a pilgrim. The credential is given solely to pilgrims happening foot, horse or bicycle. You’ll want your Credential with stamps to get a Compostela in Santiago. Credentials might be purchased in some cathedrals in Spain or obtained from the Nationwide Affiliation of Associates of St.James in your nation. In Oviedo, you may get a Credential on the Vacationer Workplace, Plaza de Constitucion, 4.

You may’t e book municipal (authorities) albergues, it really works on first come first serve system. Personal albergues might be booked prematurely over the cellphone or on-line reserving companies.

All municipal albergues on this route value between 5 and 6 Euro pp. Personal albergues have normally higher amenities, extra snug and trendy, worth between 10 and 12 Euro.

Municipal albergues don’t have lockers we’d advise to have a small bag to hold your invaluable stuff with.

Within the excessive season most municipal albergues will let you keep solely one evening, they’ll make an exception for those who get sick, have some issues along with your legs, and so on.

Most albergues have washing and drying machines, worth between 2,5 to three Euro per load.

If you wish to make your stroll a bit simpler you should use backpack shuttle service, they drive your backpack from albergue to albergue on daily basis. Common worth 4-5 euro per backpack per day.

Faucet water is potable on this a part of Spain we by no means purchased bottled water or used any purification and by no means had any downside.

In Spain like in most international locations of Europe, they use Europlug – two spherical pongs, 220-240V. You may want an adapter.

Europlug - commonly used in Spain
Europlug – generally utilized in Spain

If it’s good to purchase some type of medication that requires prescription ask your physician again house to e-mail it to you. In Spanish pharmacies, they normally ask you to ship it to their e-mail deal with for those who can’t print it.

In Spanish cities outlets, and supermarkets are normally closed on Sundays and public holidays.

For extra info and posts on the Camino de Santiago you could find HERE.

Camino Primitivo value

Should you keep in albergues and purchase meals in supermarkets you may get away for as little as 15 to 20 Euro a day per individual. Should you keep in albergues, have lunch in a restaurant, cease for espresso or have a beer put together to spend between 25 to 30 Euro pp. per day.

  • Lodging – municipal albergues – 5-6 Euro pp., non-public albergues/hostels 10-12 Euro.
  • Meal in a restaurant (Menu del Dia) – 10 Euro pp.
  • Meals purchasing – 6-Eight Euro pp. per day.
  • A cup of espresso – 1-1,Eight euro. Espresso worth was fairly an disagreeable shock examine to the opposite areas of Spain or Portugal.
  • A beer in a bar – 1,20 Euro.
  • Backpack supply service – 4-5 Euro per backpack per day.
  • Laundry – washing – Three Euro per load; drying – 1,5-Three Euro per load.

My video on the price of the Camino that reveals what are you able to get for 20, 30 and 40+ Euro per day

Journey insurance coverage for the Camino

Strolling like some other outside exercise includes a danger of getting an harm or dropping a few of the gear. It’s all the time advisable to have journey insurance coverage while you go away. The Authentic Method of the Camino de Santiago shouldn’t be an exclusion although it’s not a excessive altitude trek out of all Camino routes this route is the closest to a typical wild hike within the mountains. The Camino goes by some distant areas and it’s a bodily difficult path with many steep ascends and descends on the way in which, accidents particularly knee points are fairly frequent.

Be certain that it is possible for you to to get medical help any time you want. Insurance coverage is sort of helpful as effectively in case of a gear break or loss, you’ll be able to all the time declare it again. Let your insurance coverage firm fear about you and your belongings whilst you take pleasure in strolling the Camino. 

Social life on the Camino

For many people, it’s all the time a difficulty to seek out the appropriate individual to do a hike with as we don’t wish to be lonely or bored strolling on our personal for days. No want to fret about it on the Camino you’ll be able to come right here alone, you’ll be capable to discover strolling buddies right here. In truth, there have been extra single pilgrims on our Camino than {couples} or teams. There have been folks from the US, Canada, Australia, France, Spain, England, Germany, and so on. Should you communicate one of many European languages you’ll discover somebody to speak to. The second half of the day when all people arrived at an albergue was the most effective and essentially the most social, folks cooking, consuming and consuming collectively. So for those who hike in season between Might and September you undoubtedly received’t be lonely.

Packing record for Camino Primitivo

Our primary recommendation, don’t pack an excessive amount of keep in mind you’ll have to hold that stuff for weeks. Our backpacks had been about 6-7kg every however we had a laptop computer and an enormous DSLR digital camera with out them you most likely can low it all the way down to 5kg.

Need to get one thing particular for the Camino? Purchase a Camino de Santiago T-shirt there are such a lot of totally different choices!

Detailed Camino de Santiago packing record for various seasons for women and men  you’ll discover in our detailed Camino packing publish.

Principal cities on the Authentic Method

Oviedo – an enormous metropolis with a lovely historic middle and the cathedral, many eating places and bars, place to remain for a day or two.

Lugo – an enormous place with the outdated Roman wall and the Previous City positioned inside it. One other lovely cathedral, cobblestone streets with many bars and outlets. Excellent spot to remain on the weekend as all of the bars are opened, it will get very busy and also you get free pinchos (snacks) along with your beer or wine at any bar.

Yearly in mid-June for a few days the streets of Lugo turn out to be a battlefield between the Romans and Castro (tribes that used to stay in Northern Spain) through the well-known Arde Lucus pageant within the Previous city. Individuals from totally different components of Spain and different European international locations come right here dressed like Romans or Castro, they reconstruct the battles on the streets utilizing outdated weapons and armor. It’s like an actual journey in time so for those who’re fortunate to be right here as of late don’t miss it. Word! Ebook lodging lengthy beforehand.

Santiago de Compostela – an enormous metropolis with lots to see and to do, undoubtedly keep right here for 2 nights after you end. The primary day you’ll be most likely overpowered by feelings and fairly drained so on the second day you’ll be able to discover extra of town, stroll round a bit although strolling most likely doesn’t sound like an ideal choice in any case.

The Cathedral of Santiago at the sunset
The Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, the top of the Camino

Oviedo the start of the stroll

The Authentic Method (Primitivo) begins from the Oviedo cathedral most pilgrims arrive right here the day earlier than to have a while to discover town. Oviedo is a lovely metropolis with typical cobblestone streets, cathedral, many eating places and bars. Straightforward to get by bus or by prepare from totally different cities in Spain.

Lodging in Oviedo

Municipal Albergue El Salvador

Fairly an enormous albergue with many small rooms, {couples} get non-public rooms. It will probably accommodate 50 folks, opens at 1 pm. Value 6 Euro pp, plus 1,5 euro for disposable bedding (elective). There are a few native cafes and a grocery store simply across the nook.

Services

  • Scorching water bathe – sure
  • Wi-fi – sure
  • Kitchen with fridge, microwave, plates, cups, and utensils – sure (no range)
  • Washer – sure, 3,50 euro per load
  • Drying rack – sure
  • Blankets – sure
  • Extras – drying machine, Three euro per load, espresso and snack merchandising machine.
  • Location – Four out of 5, about 1km from the cathedral, the start line of the Camino Primitivo.
  • Consolation stage – Four out of 5.

Personal albergues and lodges in Oviedo

Should you’re not prepared to leap straight ahead into ascetic pilgrim’s life and like to remain your first evening in Oviedo in a pleasant and cozy place we’d counsel to take a look at a few of these lodges.

Attending to Oviedo

There are buses to Oviedo from totally different Spanish cities. We took a bus from Santiago de Compostela two days after we completed the Camino Portuguese. Bus worth 30 euro pp, ALSA bus firm, leaves on daily basis at 9 am. It’s higher to purchase tickets at the least someday beforehand particularly in season. ALSA is the principle bus firm that has companies to Oviedo from totally different cities in Spain. To get higher offers, verify for tickets on-line as they typically have specials that you simply don’t get when shopping for in ticket workplaces.

Trains run from a number of cities, it’s sooner and value about the identical. The bus and prepare stations in Oviedo are in the identical place, about 20 min. stroll from the Cathedral, the start line of the Camino and 30 min. stroll from the albergue El Salvador.

It’s doable to modify from the French Method or the Camino del Norte and proceed strolling to Santiago on the Primitivo we met fairly a couple of individuals who did that.

We tried to regulate this itinerary the way in which you cease on daily basis in a city or metropolis, first, as a result of there are extra lodging choices and second as a result of you will have supermarkets, ATMs, eating places close by, which makes your keep simpler and cheaper. There are a number of albergues positioned in the midst of nowhere which could sound superior simply keep in mind in excessive season there could be no area by the point you arrive there and one other factor you’ll should eat in a restaurant or bar because it’s normally the one choice which is ok for omnivores however for vegetarians or vegans it may be tough.

Camino Primitivo strolling phases

Day 1. Oviedo – El Escamplero, 13km

For the start, we’d counsel beginning with brief distances to get right into a strolling routine particularly protecting in thoughts that there are some up and down hills on the way in which. Plus you’ll have extra time to benefit from the surroundings. It’s an choice as effectively for those who favor to begin strolling the identical day you arrive in Oviedo slightly than staying there for an evening. We had been compelled to stroll a brief day attributable to heavy rain within the morning we might begin strolling solely after noon.  The path begins on the cathedral of Oviedo after which goes by town into the hills. The stroll wasn’t robust there have been some up-hills and down-hills however not very steep neither lengthy.

As an choice you’ll be able to mix Day 1 and Day 2, begin early from Oviedo, stroll all the way in which to Grado, 27km and keep there, it’s a city with two or three albergues, outlets, eating places, and so on.

Highlights of the day

  • Oviedo Cathedral and the historic middle.
  • Pastoral surroundings; inexperienced hills, small villages, cows and sheep strolling round.

El Escamplero

A small village in picturesque mountains, a pleasant cease for the primary evening.

  • ATM – no
  • Store – sure, a tiny grocery store (fruit, vegetable, snacks, cheese and so on.), closes at 2 pm, closed on Sundays.
  • Restaurant – sure, the one the place you check in for the albergue, not a really price range choice, meal from 11 euro pp. Although they’ve good ham and cheese sandwiches for 1,20 euro. Settle for playing cards.

Albergue del Escamplero, municipal

A giant home with 4 rooms can accommodate 30 folks, not very new however appears clear and has all the required. To register, pay and get bedding cease first on the restaurant. Value 5 euro pp. together with bedding, solely money. Opens at 1 pm.

Services

  • Scorching water bathe – sure
  • Wi-fi – no
  • Kitchen with range, fridge, pots, plates – sure
  • Washer – no
  • Drying rack – sure
  • Blankets – sure
  • Location – 5 out of 5, proper on the path
  • Consolation stage – Four out of 5.
A typical scenery on the Original Way of St.James
The surroundings on the primary day of the Camino Primitivo.

Day 2. El Escamplero to San Juan de Villapañada, 17km

El Escamplero – Grado – Villapañada.

A lovely stroll by the mountains and small villages, we left early within the morning and all meals locations had been nonetheless closed, we walked all the way in which to earlier than we might have some meals and low. There’s a lengthy uphill after Grado all the way in which to the albergue.

Highlights

  • Lovely mountain surroundings.
  • The historic middle of Grado and the Sunday market.

Challenges

  • Originally at some splits, the path shouldn’t be very effectively marked.
  • The final bit from Grado to San Juan de Villapanada is sort of a steep uphill.
Day 1 and 2 of Camino Primitivo, elevation profile Oviedo - El Escamplero - Villapañada
Day 1 and a pair of of Camino Primitivo, elevation profile Oviedo – El Escamplero – Villapañada

Grado

A giant city with many church buildings, a pleasant historic middle, many outlets, and so on. Should you’re within the metropolis on Sunday you’ll stroll by an enormous native market the place you should purchase scrumptious native cheeses, ham, salami, bread.

  • ATM – sure, many on the way in which
  • Retailers – sure, many supermarkets on the way in which, most open on Sundays.
  • Eating places, cafes – many on the way in which.

Albergue de San Juan de Villapañada, municipal

There’s nothing right here apart from the albergue, no outlets, no eating places be certain that to convey meals with you. You should purchase beer, wine, yogurt, eggs right here although if there are a lot of pilgrims it could be not sufficient. A gentleman who runs it is vitally good and pleasant however a bit of bit obsessive about order, every little thing should be in the appropriate place. Suits solely 20 folks however there’s one other place the place they take pilgrims if the albergue is full. Value 5 euro pp. together with bedding. Opens at 1 pm.

Services

  • Scorching water bathe – sure
  • Wi-fi – no
  • Kitchen with range, fridge, pots, plates – sure
  • Washer – sure
  • Drying rack – sure
  • Blankets – sure
  • Extras – cool drinks and snacks merchandising machines.
  • Location – Four out of 5, 800m away from the path however in a lovely spot with gorgeous views, particularly on a pleasant sunny day.
  • Consolation stage – 5 out of 5.
An old monastery on the Camino Primitivo
A monastery on the way in which to Grado. Within the mornings it was typically very cloudy and wet

Day 3. San Juan de Villapañada to Salas, 20km

Villapañada – La Doriga – Cornellana – Casazorrina – Salas.

Up and down hills all day although nothing too hectic, steep or lengthy. It was fairly a muddy day, principally strolling by the forest on the trail however attributable to heavy rains it was very soiled and moist so good waterproof footwear are important.

Highlights

  • Lovely surroundings.
  • A few outdated small villages/cities.

Challenges

  • Muddy path
  • Many up and down-hills
Villapañada to Salas elevation profile. Camino Primitivo
Villapañada to Salas elevation profile.

Salas

A pleasant city with a lovely church and picturesque surroundings.

  • ATM – sure, a number of.
  • Retailers – sure, one fairly large grocery store and a few smaller outlets.
  • Eating places – sure, a number of, some closed on Mondays.

Albergue de Salas, municipal

There are not any indications to the municipal albergue, to seek out it ask locals for ‘albergue municipal‘. It will probably match 16 folks. Value 5 euro pp. It opens early you’ll be able to simply are available in, take a mattress and an individual in cost will arrive later to register and accumulate cash.

Services

  • Scorching water bathe – sure
  • Wi-fi – no
  • Kitchen with solely microwave and a few utensils, cups, and plates – sure
  • Washer – sure, Three euro per load
  • Drying rack – sure
  • Blankets – sure
  • Extras – drying machine (2,5 euro per load), heaters
  • Location – Four out of 5, 100m away from the path
  • Consolation stage – Four out of 5

There are two or three non-public albergues/hostels you’ll simply discover them following the indications, they’ve higher amenities like wi-fi, absolutely geared up kitchen, some even embrace breakfast, worth from 10 euro pp.

A narrow cobbled street and an old stone wall of Salas, Camino Primitivo, Spain
The historic middle of Salas, a small city on the Camino Primitivo

Day 4. Salas to Tineo, 20km

Salas – Bodenaya – La Espina – Tineo.

A pleasant strolling day with fairly a bit uphill strolling, a few pilgrim’s relaxation cease, a home with espresso and snack merchandising machines, bathrooms, tables and chairs. The primary place to cease for espresso is La Espina, 9km away.

Highlights

  • Waterfall, about 2km from Salas, 250m down-hill detour
  • Forest stroll

Challenges

  • Muddy path
  • Lengthy uphill to start with
Salas to Tineo, elevation profile
Salas to Tineo, elevation profile

Tineo

Fairly an enormous city with a lovely view of the valley and the mountains.

  • ATM – sure
  • Supermarkets – sure
  • Eating places, bars, cafes – sure

Albergue Mater Christi de Tineo, municipal

You received’t miss this albergue, there are many arrows pointing the way in which, it’s proper on the city entrance. It will probably match 31 folks. It normally opened, you’ll be able to are available in, select a mattress, a person in cost comes late afternoon to register pilgrims and accumulate cash. Value 5 euro pp.

Services

  • Scorching water bathe – sure
  • Wi-fi – no
  • Kitchen with very restricted facilities; a microwave and a few plates and cups – sure
  • Washer – sure, Three euro per load
  • Drying rack – sure
  • Blankets – sure
  • Extras – drying machine, Three euro per load
  • Location – Four out of 5
  • Consolation stage – 2 out of 5, very fundamental.

There are two non-public albergues/hostels nearer to the middle with higher amenities, worth from 10 euro pp.

Day 5. Tineo to Pola de Allande, 28km

Tieno – Campiello – Borres – Porciles – Pola de Allande.

A protracted and tiring day we’d suggest to begin early. On the way in which from the albergue, there’s a bakery that opens at 6 am you should purchase contemporary bread there. The subsequent place to cease for espresso or lunch is Campiello, 14km away. As an choice you’ll be able to break at the present time into two; keep in Campiello (there are two non-public albergues there, each have eating places, one has a grocery store) and proceed the following day to Pola de Allande, 15km. It’s choice for those who really feel drained, don’t push your self slightly stroll a brief day and relaxation extra. There’s a municipal albergue in Borres 17km but it surely’s greater than fundamental and there are not any outlets, just one bar.

Highlights

  • Lovely morning view of Tineo from the highest of the hill.

Challenges

  • Many smallish up-hills
  • A muddy path alongside cow pasture fields
  • Lengthy and steep down-hill, 300m, to Pola de Allande
Tineo to Pola de Allande, elevation profile
Tineo to Pola de Allande, elevation profile

Pola de Allande

A small and comfortable city surrounded by the mountains.

  • ATM – sure
  • Grocery store – sure, closed from 2 pm to 4.30pm
  • Eating places, bars, cafés – sure

Albergue de peregrinos de Pola de Allande, municipal

The albergue is correct on the entrance to the city, straightforward to seek out simply comply with the yellow arrows. Value 5 euro pp. Opens at 1 pm.

Services

  • Scorching water bathe – sure
  • Wi-fi – no
  • Kitchen with range, pots, pans, cups, plates, utensils – sure
  • Washer – no
  • Drying line – sure
  • Blankets – sure, solely a pair
  • Location – 5 out of 5
  • Consolation stage – Four out of 5.

There’s a non-public albergue in Pola de Allande for 12 euro pp.

A countryside scenery on the Camino Primitivo
Incredible surroundings on the way in which to Tineo

Day 6. Pola de Allande to A Mesa, 23km/elective to Berducedo, 19km

Pola de Allande – Puerto del Palo – Montefurado – Lago – Barducedo – A Mesa.

From the start of the day you begin strolling up-hill, essentially the most tough strolling day on the Camino Primitivo. The path goes by the mountains for some time there might be no place to cease for a cup of espresso or lunch, the closest place is Berducedo, 19km away. We’d counsel having breakfast in Pola there are a number of cafés on the way in which that serve breakfast from 6 am.

Should you really feel very drained after a protracted steep up-hill as an choice you’ll be able to keep in Barduceda, 18km from Pola, there are two albergues; one municipal and one non-public, a few bars and a small store. By the way in which, the municipal albergue in A Mesa is likely one of the worst on the Camino the one in Berducedo is best.

Highlights

  • Gorgeous view over the mountains
  • Montefurado – a tiny village on the highest of the hill with outdated rock homes and partitions, just one resident and lots of cows.

Challenges

  • Very lengthy and steep up-hill, 600m within the first half
  • Robust wind and mist on the highest, put together rain-jacket
Pola de Allande to A Mesa, elevation profile. The toughest day on Camino Primitivo.
Pola de Allande to A Mesa, elevation profile. The hardest day on Camino Primitivo.

A Mesa

There’s nothing right here besides for 2 albergues and a restaurant, it’s not a city or village if you wish to purchase some meals do it in Barducedo.

  • ATM – no
  • Grocery store – no
  • Restaurant – sure

Albergue de peregrinos de A Mesa, municipal

There are two albergues; one municipal and one non-public, municipal one may be very dilapidated with outdated mattresses, small, smelly and really humid. No person stayed right here, each albergues positioned subsequent to one another. Value 5 euro pp. There are 12 beds.

Services

  • Scorching water bathe – sure
  • Wi-fi – no
  • Kitchen with range, pots, pans, cups, plates, utensils – sure
  • Washer – no
  • Drying traces – sure
  • Blankets – sure, solely a pair
  • Location – 5 out of 5
  • Consolation stage – 2 out of 5.

Albergue Miguelin, A Mesa, non-public

It’s extra like a pleasant hostel than albergue, every little thing is new (opened in 2018), very clear and cozy; large beds, lockers, mattress mild, superior showers, good frequent space, spacious and trendy. It may be booked prematurely. Value 12 euro pp. together with disposable bedding. There are 16 beds and a few non-public rooms.

Services

  • Scorching water bathe – sure
  • Wi-fi – sure
  • Kitchen – no however you should use the kitchen of municipal albergue, each are run by the identical individual.
  • Washer – sure
  • Drying rack – sure
  • Blankets – sure
  • Location – 5 out of 5
  • Consolation stage – 5 out of 5.
Two old houses in the middle of nowhere on the Camino
Montefurado, a tiny village on the high of the move with solely on resident residing right here

Various route from Tineo to A Mesa by Hospitales, 46km, 2 days

As an choice you’ll be able to stroll a unique route by Hospitales, whole distance to A Mesa might be a bit shorter, the path goes up by the mountains. It’s price to take this route provided that the climate is sweet in any other case it is going to be cloudy, windy and also you received’t see something. The path splits on the second day at La Mortera, on the primary day you continue to stroll on the principle route and joins once more on the second day at Puerto del Palo.

Day 5. Tineo to Borres, 18km

Borres is a tiny village with an albergue and a bar, no store. Take note the albergue in Borres may be very fundamental and doesn’t have a kitchen however you may get meals and low within the bar.

Day 6 Borres to A Mesa, 28km/elective Barducedo, 26km

From Borres you stroll for 15km by the wild with out something or anyone after that the path joins the principle route at Puerto del Palo from the place it’s 13km to A Mesa. On a transparent day, you’ll be capable to take pleasure in gorgeous mountainous surroundings.

Day 7. A Mesa to Grandas de Salime, 17km

A Mesa – Embalse de Salime – Grandas de Salime.

It was the day with essentially the most lovely surroundings, one lengthy down-hill, many of the day slight up-hill. We’d counsel having breakfast in A Mesa there is no such thing as a place to cease on the way in which besides one restaurant 4km earlier than Salime.

Highlights

  • Tiny rocky chapel, after the primary up-hill from A Mesa, the smallest and cutest chapel we’ve ever seen
  • Gorgeous view over Embalse de Salime (water reservoir) on the way in which all the way down to the dam.
  • A balcony/viewpoint on the dam on the right-hand aspect of the street (stroll by the door).
  • Anthropology museum in Grandas de Salime, 1,5 euro entrance payment.

Challenges

  • Steep and lengthy down-hill to the dam
  • Some street stroll alongside the dam however the street shouldn’t be busy
A Mesa to Grandes de Salime, elevation profile
A Mesa to Grandes de Salime, elevation profile

Grandas de Salime

A pleasant city, we had been fairly glad we determined to remain and to not stroll on. There are two albergues right here, one municipal and one non-public and a few pensions.

  • ATM – sure. Don’t use Telebanco, the one at Santander financial institution, it prices 5 euro fee.
  • Grocery store – sure
  • Eating places – sure

Albergue de Grandas de Salime, municipal

A really good and neat albergue with good amenities, positioned very near the grocery store and bakery. There are 25 beds, opens at 12.30pm. Value 6 euro pp. together with disposable bedding.

Services

  • Scorching water bathe – sure
  • Wi-fi – sure
  • Kitchen with electrical range, pots, plates, utensils – sure
  • Washer – sure, Three euro per load
  • Extras – drying machine (Three euro per load), espresso, cool drinks and snacks merchandising machine
  • Drying traces – sure
  • Blankets – sure
  • Location – Four out of 5
  • Consolation stage – 5 out of 5
Embalse de Salime, a dam surrounded by the forest on the Camino in Asturias
Embalse de Salime, a lovely dam within the forest simply earlier than Grandes de Salime

Day 8. Grandas de Salime to A Fonsagrada, 26km

Grandas de Salime – Cereixeira – Castro – Venta del Acebo – Barbeitos – A Fonsagrada.

A pleasant day of strolling with some up-hills, forest stroll and some muddy roads. The day went fairly quick for us it didn’t really feel we walked 26km. At this time you permit Asturias and enter totally different province – Galicia, there might be an indication indicating it.

Highlights

  • It was so cloudy and misty that we didn’t see a lot.
  • Noticed an expensive and a genet within the forest.

Challenges

  • Some street stroll however the roads weren’t busy we noticed a automotive each occasionally
  • Very steep up-hill proper on the finish all the way in which to A Fonsagrada.
Grandes de Salime to A Fonsagrada, elevation profile. Camino Primitivo
Grandes de Salime to A Fonsagrada, elevation profile. Camino Primitivo

A Fonsagrada

A pleasant and fairly large city with a number of albergues, hostels, and pensions. An excellent place to purpose for in excessive season as there are a lot of lodging choices. Consideration! Municipal albergue was once in Padron, 2km away from the city but it surely was moved now it’s in A Fonsagrada subsequent to the church.

  • ATM – sure.
  • Supermarkets – sure
  • Eating places, bars – sure

Albergue de A Fonsagrada, municipal

Situated subsequent to the church, near the supermarkets and eating places. An outdated home became an albergue, new, spacious and trendy, extra like a cool hostel than a municipal albergue. Considered one of our favourite albergues on the Camino Primitivo. Opens at 1 pm. Value 6 euro together with bedding. It will probably accommodate 40 folks.

Services

  • Scorching water bathe – sure
  • Wi-fi – no
  • Kitchen with electrical range, fridge, only a few pots, plates, and utensils – sure
  • Washer – no
  • Extras – large lounge space, heaters
  • Drying traces – sure
  • Blankets – no
  • Location – 5 out of 5
  • Consolation stage – Four out of 5, an ideal place however the kitchen shouldn’t be geared up very effectively.

Day 9. A Fonsagrada to O Cadavo Baleira, 25,4km

A Fonsagrada – Padron – Paradavella – A Lastra – Fontaneira – O Cadavo Baleira.

Climate-wise it was one of many worst days on our Camino, it rained from early morning, we had been moist, chilly and depressing.

Challenges

  • One lengthy down-hill
  • Many up-hills typically fairly steep
A Fonsagrada to O Cadavo Baleira, elevation profile
A Fonsagrada to O Cadavo Baleira, elevation profile

O Cadavo Baleira

A small city with three albergues, one municipal and two non-public. There are outlets however all of them are closed on Sundays it’s a must to convey meals with you from A Fonsagrada or eat in one of many eating places. There are a few bars a bit additional away from the albergue that offer you pinchos totally free for those who order drinks.

  • ATM – sure.
  • Store – sure
  • Eating places, bars – sure

Albergue de O Cadavo Baleira, municipal

The albergue is ok not a model new and trendy because the one in A Fonsagrada however every little thing works good and it’s clear. Value 6 Euro, together with disposable bedding. Opens at 1 pm.

Services

  • Scorching water bathe – sure
  • Wi-fi – no
  • Kitchen with electrical range, fridge, pots, plates, utensils – sure
  • Washer – no
  • Drying traces – sure
  • Blankets – no
  • Location – 5 out of 5
  • Consolation stage – Four out of 5.

There’s a new non-public albergue down the road for 10 Euro with higher amenities.

Day 10. O Cadavo Baleira to Lugo, 30,5km

Vilabade – Castroverde – Vilar de Cas – Gondar – Castelo – Lugo.

We’d counsel beginning the day early to be able to have extra time in Lugo, it’s a pleasant metropolis with lots to see. The municipal albergue in Lugo has solely 40 beds so for those who arrive late you won’t get a spot however there are a lot of non-public albergues and hostels there. You may get breakfast and low at Vilabade there’s a meals kiosk there, individuals who run it would open a neighborhood church for you, inform a little bit of a historical past of the Camino (for those who perceive Spanish).

Highlights

Umbrella fountain in entrance of the church in Castroverde appears superb if it rains.

The historic city of Lugo; spectacular large Roman partitions, Gothic cathedral, cobblestone streets.

Calle de los Vinos in Lugo (road close to the cathedral), don’t miss it particularly over weekends, there are a number of bars the place for those who order drinks you get free tapas, small beer 1,20 Euro, large – 2 Euro.

Bakery Meson de Crecente in Lugo throughout the street from Puerta de San Pedro they’re opened until late, have scrumptious pastry, good espresso, you get one thing candy along with your espresso totally free.

Challenges

  • Lengthy distance, 30km, comparatively flat with one up-hill to start with.
  • A bit little bit of strolling on the street however more often than not there have been no automobiles.
O Cadavo Baleira to Lugo, elevation profile.
O Cadavo Baleira to Lugo, elevation profile.

Lugo

A giant metropolis with a lovely historic middle behind the outdated Roman partitions; cobblestone streets, cathedral, church buildings, museums, and so on. A few of our Camino buddies, who arrived too drained for strolling across the metropolis, stayed right here for 2 days to have an opportunity to see it. Keep in mind, you’re not allowed to remain for 2 nights within the municipal albergue however non-public albergues received’t thoughts.

  • ATMs – sure.
  • Supermarkets – sure. The subsequent day there might be no outlets on the way in which if you wish to purchase one thing purchase it in Lugo.
  • Eating places, bars – sure

Albergue de peregrinos de Lugo, municipal

A pleasant and large place contained in the Wall, near the eating places and cathedral. It will probably match 40 folks, opens at 1 pm. Value 6 euro together with disposable bedding.

Services

  • Scorching water bathe – sure
  • Wi-fi – sure
  • Kitchen – sure, with very restricted facilities
  • Washer – sure, Three euro per load
  • Drying traces – sure
  • Extras – drying machine, 1,5 euro per load
  • Blankets – no
  • Location – 5 out of 5
  • Consolation stage – Four out of 5.

Extra lodging choices in Lugo

| Hostel Cross | Hostel O Miño | Lodge España | Lodge Metropol by Carris |

The Roman Walls of Lugo, Camino Primitivo
The Roman Partitions of Lugo. Troublesome to imagine they had been constructed within the third century.

Day 11. Lugo to San Romao da Retorta (Castrelo), 20km

Lugo – San Lazaro – San Vicenzo do Burgo – San Romao da Retorta/Castrelo.

It will have been a straightforward strolling day and we had been planning to stroll additional to the following place but it surely rained very exhausting, we had been fully moist and determined to cease at Castrelo. As an choice to make your subsequent day shorter you’ll be able to stroll on 5km extra and cease at A Covela (there is just one non-public albergue there).

Highlights

  • Good view on Lugo and the Previous Roman bridge from the outskirts of town.
  • A lovely stroll by the forest.

Challenges

  • Half of the day strolling on the street although not very busy.
Lugo to San Romao da Retorta, elevation profile
Lugo to San Romao da Retorta, elevation profile

San Romao da Retorta/Castrelo

Each locations are mainly the identical village, there’s nothing right here apart from one municipal and one non-public albergue with a restaurant.

Albergue O Candido (non-public)

We arrived fairly early, didn’t wish to proceed strolling in heavy rain, the municipal albergue was closed until 1 pm so we didn’t wish to wait and checked in to the non-public one. Value 10 euro pp. in dormitory together with bedding and breakfast (tea, espresso, cacao, toasts, muffins, fruit).  The restaurant right here shouldn’t be nice, they serve ready-made meals, salads, sandwiches, not superb espresso.

Services

  • Scorching water bathe – sure
  • Wi-fi – sure
  • Kitchen – no however we might get scorching water, use microwave and plates.
  • Washer – no, they ship laundry to Lugo (get again the identical day) the place it will get washed and dried. It’s simpler and cheaper to do it your self within the albergue in Lugo.
  • Drying traces – no
  • Extras – heaters within the dorms and a fire downstairs, nice for drying garments and footwear.
  • Blankets – no
  • Location – 5 out of 5
  • Consolation stage – Four out of 5

The municipal albergue prices 6 euro, it has a kitchen and 12 beds.

A small waterfall hidden in the forest on the Camino route
A small waterfall within the forest on the Camino Primitivo

Day 12. San Romao da Retorta/Castrelo to Melide, 28km

Castrelo – A Covela – O Carballal – As Seixas – Casacamino – Irago de Arriba – Melide.

Final day of strolling with out crowds of pilgrims on the paths. There are a number of eating places on the way in which the place you’ll be able to cease for lunch or espresso.

Highlights

  • Some components of the path by the forest. To be sincere, the final three days of the Camino Primitivo are much less spectacular than the primary half.

Challenges

  • Some up-hill strolling although not steep or lengthy.
San Romao da Retorta to Melide, elevation profile. Joining of the Camino Primitivo with Camino Frances
San Romao da Retorta to Melide, elevation profile. Becoming a member of of the Camino Primitivo with Camino Frances

Melide

Each the Camino Frances and the Camino Primitivo take part Melide, for the final two days you stroll on the French Camino, while you attain town don’t be shocked there might be a whole lot of pilgrims right here. No want to fret about lodging, there are a lot of albergues, together with one municipal for 120 folks. The city is known for pulperias – eating places the place you’ll be able to eat pulpo, octopus cooked with spices.

  • ATMs – sure.
  • Supermarkets – sure
  • Eating places, bars – sure

Albergue O Cruceiro, non-public

We arrived earlier than 12 pm and didn’t really feel like ready for municipal albergue to open so we went to the primary albergue we noticed. It’s near supermarkets and bars. Value 10 Euro pp. together with disposable bedding. It may be booked prematurely.

Services

  • Scorching water bathe – sure
  • Wi-fi – sure
  • Kitchen (cooking plates, pots, plates, cup, cutlery) – sure.
  • Washer – sure, Four Euro per load.
  • Drying traces – no
  • Extras – AC, drying machines, lounge space, TV, lockers, every mattress has a private mild and an outlet.
  • Blankets – sure
  • Location – 5 out of 5
  • Consolation stage – 5 out of 5.

Our buddies stayed within the municipal one, it was nice, the worth 6 Euro.

Extra lodging choices in Melide

| Albergue Pereiro | Albergue San Anton | O Tobo do Lobo | Lodge Carlos 96 |

Day 13. Melide to O Pedrouzo, 33km

Melide – Boente – A Fraga Alta – Ribadiso da Baixo – Arzua – Calle – Salceda – Mojon – O Empalme – Santa Irene – A Rua – O Pedrouzo.

After the quiet Camino Primitivo, you begin strolling on the French Camino with a whole lot if not hundreds of different pilgrims. There are various espresso outlets, eating places, albergues on the way in which, each 5km at the least. To get from the Camino Primitivo to the French Method was like to return out of a quiet forest proper in the midst of an enormous and busy metropolis.

Challenges

  • Fairly a little bit of strolling alongside the street
  • Tons of of pilgrims on the route, particularly after Arzua
  • Distance, 33km – the longest day on the Camino
Melide to O Pedrouzo, elevation profile. The last two days on the Camino are relatively flat.
Melide to O Pedrouzo, elevation profile. The final two days on the Camino had been comparatively flat

O Pedrouzo

Don’t know if this place would exist with out the Camino, the city is mainly just one road with many albergues, eating places, cafes, and so on. There are a number of non-public albergues/hostels and lodges in addition to one municipal albergue. We didn’t keep right here we determined to problem ourselves and walked all the way in which to Santiago in someday, 53km. It was robust however we made it by 6 pm and had been fairly glad to be completed someday earlier and have extra time to discover Santiago.

  • ATMs – sure.
  • Supermarkets – sure
  • Eating places, bars – sure

Extra lodging choices in O Pedrouzo

| Albergue O Trisquel | Pension Maruja | Pension 23 | Pension Diana | Pension 9 de Abril |

Day 14. O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela, 20km

O Pedrouzo – San Paio – Lavacolla – Monte do Gozo – Santiago de Compostela.

The final day we’d counsel beginning early if you wish to make it to the Pilgrim Mass at 12 pm (there’s a Pilgrim Mass at 7.30pm as effectively). Keep in mind you’re not allowed to enter the cathedral with a backpack you’ll be able to both go away it in your albergue or on the Pilgrim’s Reception Workplace, 100m from the cathedral.

Word! As for March 2020, the Lots happen in numerous places because of the renovation within the Cathedral.

The best choice is to remain in one of many albergues on the way in which to the cathedral you’ll be able to simply drop your backpack there and proceed strolling as we did. We stayed at Albergue Turistico La Credencial, a pleasant place, snug dormitories, clear, good amenities, a bit removed from the historic middle however proper on the French Camino and 500m from the bus station. Value 16 Euro for a dorm mattress. Usually absolutely booked particularly in season.

On this Camino you’ve bought loads of lovely forest and mountain surroundings for those who’d like so as to add some sea views to finish the image and naturally when you have time we will suggest a shot 3-4-day stroll from Santiago de Compostela to Finisterre – “the top of the world” how folks used to name that place within the outdated instances. Should you don’t really feel like strolling anymore however nonetheless wish to go to Finisterre and Muxia capes you are able to do a day bus tour from Santiago.

Highlights

  • Gorgeous forest proper after O Pedrouzo.

Challenges

  • The final 10km of the stroll usually are not effectively marked, no distances, you mainly comply with the group.
O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela, elevation profile. The last day of Camino Primitivo
O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela, elevation profile. The final day of Camino Primitivo

Santiago de Compostela the top of the Camino

If by the top of your Camino you’re feeling such as you’ve stayed sufficient in albergues and slept sufficient in dormitories there are many good lodges in Santiago the place you’ll be able to lastly have some privateness and revel in consolation.

Lodging in Santiago

Excursions and actions in Santiago de Compostela

Getting the Compostela in Santiago

To get the Compostela (the accreditation of pilgrimage to the Tomb of St.James) go to the Pilgrim’s Reception Workplace in Santiago. The easiest way is to reach there earlier than Eight am (opening time) and stand in a queue, some folks do it the following day after they arrive in Santiago. Should you arrive there later within the day you may spend ready between 1 and three hours relying on the season.

To get Compostela you have to present your Credential with stamps that confirms that you simply’ve walked greater than 100km and pay 5 Euro. As an choice, you’ll be able to kind a bunch and apply in your Compostela as a bunch you then don’t wait within the queue you fill the types and are available again later at a longtime time to gather your Compostela.

We had been informed that the primary 10 folks within the queue get a free meal in one of many metropolis eating places, not 100% positive about it as we didn’t attempt. To be first within the queue it’s a must to be on the workplace earlier than 7 am, it opens at Eight am.

Botafumeiro ceremony within the Cathedral

Formally it’s accomplished solely on particular spiritual celebrations like Easter, Christmas and so forth, verify for the entire record right here. It was once a part of the Friday Mass however apparently it’s a really costly ceremony and now to see it exterior of the talked about above days folks should pay. It prices 400 Euro to rearrange Botafumeiro ceremony through the Pilgrim Mass at 12 pm. You may share the associated fee between as many individuals as you need or you could be fortunate and anyone arranges it for the day you’re there. It’s essential to e book it beforehand.

I’ve seen the ceremony solely as soon as and it was actually spectacular, one thing to experience for those who’re a bunch of individuals we’d counsel reserving Botafumeiro to have a good time the top of the Camino and to make that day much more particular. Keep in mind no photograph or video is allowed through the Mass even for those who personally pay for Botafumeiro.

Ultimate ideas concerning the Camino Primitivo

It was our second Camino de Santiago, we completed the Camino Portuguese two days earlier than we began the Primitivo and should say these are two fully totally different experiences. We each love mountain climbing within the mountains and the Camino Primitivo is as shut as you may get to it on any Camino de Santiago, no large cities and busy roads, extra countryside, mountains, and forest. Although it felt fairly wild and untouched there’s sufficient infrastructure to make your stroll nice; totally different lodging and meals choices, straightforward to discover a place to cease for espresso and lunch in the midst of the day, the route is effectively marked and so on.

This Camino is a good mixture of “wild” mountain climbing experience with good infrastructure. One more reason we actually favored the Primitivo is not many individuals, examine to the opposite Caminos de Santiago, solely 5% of all pilgrims stroll this Camino plus the distance321km shouldn’t be so long as the French or Northern Camino you’ll be able to full it throughout your normal vacation.

Our favourite albergues on the Camino

  • Albergue de San Juan de Villapañada (municipal) – an ideal place with gorgeous places, superb amenities, pleasant folks, nice vibe, 5 Euro pp.
  • Albergue Miguelin, A Mesa (non-public) – very snug new albergue with every little thing you’ll be able to anticipate finding in a pleasant hostel, 12 Euro pp.
  • Albergue de A Fonsagrada (municipal) – an superior albergue in an enormous outdated home with conventional thick stone partitions, very trendy and comfortable, snug beds, large frequent space, 6 Euro pp.

Essentially the most difficult day

Day 5 or 6 relying in your itinerary from Pola de Allande to A Mesa, 22km, the longest and hardest up-hill stroll on the route with subsequent lengthy down-hill. There are a few lengthy distance days, 30km+ they’re fairly robust however normally, it’s a flat stroll.

Essentially the most lovely day

Stroll from A Mesa to Grandes de Salime, 17km; lush inexperienced forest, gorgeous turquoise colour Embalse de Salime, lovely mountains, nice lookouts. We had been glad it was a brief day and we might cease lots for pictures and benefit from the surroundings.

Objects we love taking up the Camino

  • Merino Wool Darn Powerful Hiker Socks – Merino Wool socks usually are not a gimmick, my days of strolling with low-cost socks are over, much less blisters and odor, purchase correct merino wool socks.
  • Good Rain Poncho – Take a correct rain poncho and maintain your self and your bag type of dry when strolling within the rain for hours.
  • PETZL – TACTIKKA Headlamp – scratching round in your backpack with out waking up the entire dorm, good LED headlamp is important.
  • Kindle E-book – Carry no matter books you need, very mild, built-in mild, the battery lasts per week.
  • Neck Pouch/Passport holder – maintain money and passports collectively.
  • Go Professional HERO8 – Like our movies? purchase the most effective little motion digital camera available on the market at this time, mainly indestructible.

Advisable books and guidebooks

Helpful apps for the Authentic Method

  • Camino Help Pilgrim Santiago. Free obtain, obtainable for Android and Apple.
  • TrekRight Camino Primitivo. Value US$10, obtainable for Android and Apple.
  • Buen Camino de Santiago. Free obtain, obtainable for Android and Apple.
  • Properly + Camino Primitivo; a Sensible Pilgrim information. Value US$6, obtainable for Android and Apple. We haven’t used it however I noticed many sad customers complaining concerning the app, I’d suggest studying the evaluations earlier than shopping for it.

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Hey! A bit about us - we’re John & Maria and we're a couple that loves to travel the world and document our adventures! We enjoy writing, blogging, exploring and sharing our adventures. We’re always embarking on new journeys and here you’ll find articles covering many travel destinations, and topics, such as culture, history, art and cuisine. Our goal and mission is to present compelling stories, photography and personal opinions, as well as serve as an online resource for anyone who wishes to plan their own trips and visit the destinations we've been to. We genuinely love meeting new people, mingling with locals, listening to their amazing stories and trying new travel experiences.

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